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Traditional Paithani Vs Brocade Paithani | Jump to Pricing


A Brief Reference to Prices and Time of Weaving & Types of Paithani Saree/Sari

Paithani with Traditional border which is also commonly referred as Coconut or Pankha border Paithani is weaved differently than Brocade as highlighted below: 

Traditional Paithani:

1) Traditional Coconut/Pankha Border is weaved with Dobby setting which is a setting that get pattern weaved without artisans interference.

2) In Dobby set loom, weft is woven edge-to-edge (width of saree) by the same color silk (single yarn) which means, it does not require a manual change of color for border and base thus enabling using paddle operated shuttle.

3) Butties in these Sarees are set on Jacquard (Punch Card Pattern commonly used in all textile as well as tapestry) which create desired shape of butti (Koyari, Paisa, Dollar, Flowers, Peacock etc) on saree base.

4) A significant time is thus saved in weaving 5 or 8 yards of 6 or 9 yard saree leaving pallu to be weaved manually. Normally a 6 yard saree with traditional border takes a week to weave base and from one week (single pallu) to four weeks (fancy pallu) to weave pallu.

5) Pallu takes maximum time as it is complete manual hand-woven process where artisan uses his creativity and fingers to create pattern. Number of Silk and Jari bobbins forms a one weft and progress of weaving depends on details, curves and no. of patterns to be weaved.  

6) Jari in these Paithanies is not silver but only silver-plated (unless special order). Some weavers use fine and soft silk base jari while some use cotton base jari which is stiff and ease weaving.

Brocade Paithani:

1) Pattern (Lotus, Peacock, Flowers, etc) are weaved in border just as pallu using several bobbins of Silk and Jari. It is complete manual process and use of delicate fingers of artist determine the quality and intricacy of it.

2) Weft is woven from inner edge of upper and lower borders thus adding another turn of shuttle to complete one weft thread. Since a pattern is developed in Border it also require manual movement.

3) Butties are commonly Dollar (1" round) or Paisa (1/2" round) applied in Brocade Paithanies and are woven manually. It is thus adds more weft bobbins to be applied and further complicating the weaving.

4) Brocade paithani progress 1/10" to 1" a day depends on intricacy of design. Muniya can be weaved 2-3 inches a day while Ajanta lotus only progress 1/2". More complicated designs take far more time.

5) Pallu in brocade are normally large up to 40" (traditional Paithanies have 28" maximum) and are more of ensemble of vases or pots sandwiched between Border pattern. Pallus are most complicated and takes far more time as symmetry, appearance are added to the fine weaving.

6) Jari in brocade is silver jari plated with gold. Silver contents are from 10% to 90% based on price and requirement. Most Muniya and Peacock/Parrot brocades are very low silver to maintain prices affordable. Jari quality also depends on who make paithani as many weavers do not use silver jari even in highest grade and expensive Paithanies.


As we see everywhere in our daily life, material cost is much lower than labor involved. It is also true in Paithani. While most Paithanies take major price as labour, time to weave determines the cost. Similar designs may be cost differently based on quality of weaving and jari content.

Simple checks:

When determining price, do ask for close up pictures as that will guide you for detailed design and intricacy. A leaf or flower or peacock with round edge weaving is far easier than one with sharp wavy edges. Distance between motif is also determine price. Lotus separated by 3" and 2" makes 20-30% price difference.

Quick Checks: 1) Motif used, Distance between Motifs, Details-Colors used in Motif, Additional features, leaves, buds, peacocks, Muniya. 2) Quality of weaving, Peacock/parrot beak shape, petal shapes in flowers, leaves. 3) Colors used, more colors, shading means more work. 4) Overall quality of silk and jari.

WATCH this Video  and Images of weaving Paithani for further Reference.

Type of Paithani Saree based on Pattern and Design: Pricing


A) Traditional Border Paithani ---->

                      Single Pallu/Padar (16-18" Pallu) with Standard Peacock Pairs [Hand-woven]

                      Double Pallu/Padar(24-30" Pallu) with Standard Peacock Pairs [Hand-woven]


                      Fancy Pallu Medium Pallu/Padar (18-22" Pallu) with various combinations of design [Hand-woven]

                      Fancy Pallu Large Pallu/Padar (24-30" Pallu) with various combinations of design [Hand-woven]

                      Heavy Brocade Pallu (30-36") with Pallu designs from Brocade border Paithani [Hand-woven] & [Machine made]


[Single Pallu INR 7,000.00 to 8,000.00 based on quality, Intricacy and Design of Pallu]

[Double Pallu INR 8,000.00 to 10,00.00 based on quality, Intricacy and Design of Pallu]

[Fancy Pallu INR 12,000.00 to 20,000.00 based on quality, Intricacy and Design of Pallu]

[9 Yard Single-Double-Fancy Pallu INR 10,000.00 to 20,000.00 based on quality, Intricacy and Design of Pallu]


* Touch of Class do not sell Machine made Paithanies. Jacquard used only for Peacock or Mango motifs over Shoulder and for buttis are sold where entire paithani is Hand-woven.

* NOT always all sellers will tell you difference and true identity of Paithani whether it is Machine made or Hand-woven. Our survey found that over 75% paithani's sold today are machine made and claimed as real hand-woven.

* There is no such thing as Semi-Paithani as they are purely machine made synthetic silk or mix of synthetic and low grade natural silk. They label it as Semi Paithani for popularity and copy of design.

* Many website are listing Paithanis with large and fancy pallu such as peacock chakra and likewise which are woven on Jacquard. It makes great deal of difference between a simple hand-woven pallu and Jacquard Pallu which do not need artisan to weave if ART is considered.


B) Brocade Border Paithani---->


                 Muniya is basic Brocade Border Paithani where a representation of Parrot Motif used on Border. It adopts different Pallus starting from Simple double Pallu/Padar up to highly intricate lotus or flower one. [INR 22,000.00 to 40,000.00 based on Quality, Intricacy and Design of Pallu]


                      Peacock and Parrot motif Brocade Borders are generally a geometrical or wavy vine borders with matching design Pallu. Distance between each motif, details and colors used in each motif, additional features (leaves, flowers) and geometrical or curvy vine determine quality and price of it. [for simple peacock/parrot brocade INR 35,000.00 to 65,000.00, For Sakhali Mor type intricate patterns INR 40,000.00 to 75,000.00 based on Quality, Intricacy and Design of Border and Pallu]


                      Lotus or Rajkamal motif Brocade is essentially a Lotus flowering vine on Border and matching version of large Pallu. 5 Petal, 7 Petal, Ajanta Lotus, Lotus in different form are common variations. Based on quality, size of border and pallu, detailing of each motif determine price of each Lotus Paithani. [INR 50,000.00 to 1,50,000.00 based on Size, Distance between motifs, quality, Intricacy and Design of Border and Pallu]


                      Asawali motif Brocade is a Asawali flowering vine border and pallu Paithani. Several variations such as shaded, large or small, multi or single colored curvy or geometrical motif are made in it. [INR 35,000.00 to 1,50,000.00 based on Size, Distance between motifs, quality, Intricacy and Design of Border and Pallu]


                      Akruti or Geometrical motif Brocade border where a geometrical shape is used individually or as a vine in border and pallu could be of any pattern in lotus, peacock or combination of flowers and figures. [INR 30,000.00 to 50,000.00 based on Size, Distance between motifs, quality, Intricacy and Design of Border and Pallu]


                      Koyari or Mango motif where a mango shaped motif is used in combination of flowers, asawali, peacock, parrot and lotus to create beautiful Paithanis. [INR 50,000.00 to 2,50,000.00 based on Size, Distance between motifs, quality, Intricacy and Design of Border and Pallu]


                      Flowering vine Brocades are rather modern incorporation in Paithani weaving where several attractive and elegant designs are weaved in Border and Pallu to create contemporary  designs. Custom made Paithanies are dominating these motifs where one's design is weaved. [INR 60,000.00 to 2,00,000.00 based on Size, Distance between motifs, quality, Intricacy and Design of Border and Pallu]


                      Combinations of above are also made in different border width and patterns. Sakhali mor, bangadi mor, parrot-peacock, parrot-peacock-asawali are some examples. [INR 50,000.00 to 2,00,000.00 based on Size, Distance between motifs, quality, Intricacy and Design of Border and Pallu]


* * * * * PAITHANI: Quick Reference for Paithani Pricing * * * * *


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